Best climbing slings reddit So I've been climbing at my gym for about 3 years now. 14+. Knots like the water knot are relatively slippy (even in nylon, good idea to check any hand tied slings before you use them) so arent a good idea in dyneema. This sub is for advice and support on your babywearing journey! 1. Using any other knot to join slings (including the edk!!): Some people have been suggesting using an edk to join slings. For snug chimney pitches, you dangle it about 5 feet below by a couple slings, so you can still use your feet properly, and manage it if it gets snagged. Premium Explore Gaming. The only issue I can see with making your own is if you make a normal length sling, and double it so it's shorter as a quick-draw, there might be some hanky panky if you're trying to extend it to the regular length by unclipping the biner, clipping 1 strand and then pulling. I've never seen anybody preclip gear to slings, bandolier style or with quick/alpine draws. We are climbing in Switzerland where the routes we have been on have good strong bolts that are close together and are usually connected by a chain. Yeh it's fine, I just girth hitch one through my tie-in loop with a carabiner the other end. Love my Metolius cams, and their customer service is top notch. If cost is a concern then just buy the quickdraw slings by themselves, the flat stitch makes it easier to handle so you don't do something dumb like backclip versus a self made one with nylon slings that can easily twist. 0 coins. Knots in nylon= ok knots in dyneema= less ok but still okay. (standard quickdraws will do if you have em from sport climbing with spare slings to extend them if needed or alpine draws if you're The size range and what you well need to add on to that depends on where you climb. The one caveat is that if you spray your ropes or slings, the wet/sticky may attract dirt which will work it's way into the fabric. rebel, ozone, top gun) and slings at fair prices, haven't tried out their biners and crashpads yet edelrid (germany): great ropes and quickdraws chillaz (austria): cool clothes for climbing and bouldering VDiff climbing says: " Don’t use a sling for anything except a prusik after using it once as a prusik. There are a lot of used h&p slings in good-excellent condition for sale on the facebook hope&plum b/s/t group, (& i do have a $20 off $120 purchase referral code if youre interested ! Sorry for sounding like an ad but im just a true fangirl haha) Usually there are no bolted anchors where I climb. What’s the This is good advice. If you keep your stuff clean, stored properly, out of the sun, it'll last a lot longer. Yep, static line is probably your best option for extending toprope anchors. A set of ULMCs 1-8 is my go-to for a lot of alpine rock routes. What would be a first good sling and why? I'm looking at a 10mm thick 60/100cm long sling. there's a lot of information in the stickied post on this sub but standard rack is doubles . New comments cannot be posted. If leading in blocks, I most often use a regular cordelette, sometimes anchor with the rope. For multi-pitch cragging we share one small pack, like a B. I tend to climb a lot of alpine and place a lot of passive pro so I like to runner things out. On longish trad routes or multipitch I usually do both and split it pretty even between over-the-shoulder nylon slings with a It's safe but unnecessary. Reposting this higher, as I am seeing bad advice. I would say there's more to it than anchors. Climbing slings and carabiners rated for 15-20kN. A double length sling with and an overhand does the exact same thing as this 'belay-sling,' and a bunch other cool things too, for less money to boot. girth hitching loses minimum of 50% of sling strength (when used on a biner, when used on something skinner, like a thumb loop of a cam, it will lose even more strength). This is for rappelling on multi pitch. Business, Economics, and Finance. Still my favorite sling, HSP sling is great. on rope go with a treated rope it will last longer, go for something that's 9. My dad was a climber in the 80s and 90s and has about 10 cams. If your sliding x sling fails, the whole anchor fails, so you have no redundancy. Also slings tend to last quite a long time - I have had mine for at least a thousand pitches of climbing and they are holding up. All in all the draw weighs in at 60 grams. You're good to spray them all you want, just clean it up after and you're totally fine. As for strength between dyneema/nylon, tests have shown that even when wet, neither sling loses enough strength to be a concern, but of the two, dyneema was almost completely unaffected. I use double length slings shortened by a twist. Adjama Is my go to as well. I have a roll of dyneema arborist throw-line I use for most of my outdoor rigging. Honestly surprised no one mentioned a Haley sling. It's the old adage about giving a man a fish, Falling climber loads are actually pretty low at the anchor point. They’re lightweight r/onebag is an 'urban' travel community devoted to the idea of helping people lug around less crap; onebag travel. Far be it from me to tell anyone besides my partner how they should climb. An OVERHAND. Locked post. Usually around 16-20mm wide, nylon climbing slings are much bulkier (and more durable) than lightweight 6-14mm Dyneema slings. The metal is in good condition so I went ahead and replaced the slings with brand new accessory cord. My family asked for an Amazon wishlist so I put climbing gear and board games on mine. Sometimes with a regular cordelette or slings. They were only placed once or twice and never fallen on. Currently most of the gear I climb with has been passed down from my dad. So I've begun climbing with more slings on my harness lately, and i was curious how you guys carry them. Modern Dayfarer is a great choice too, didn't fit my design preferences but I'm sure it'd work for someone else. in practice this increases overall breaking strength by about 1. 7oz. Like Redpin says, I usually store unknotted if for no other reason than to get practice in tying my slings together. The best climbing sling due to its great handle and low weight and width: A top-notch sling at a top-shelf price: A fantastic lightweight flat sling that is also affordable: A great sling that costs more than it seems like it should: A Personally, since a top rope is based on a single point of (potential) failure, I want it to be made up of at least two completely independent anchors. /r/photography is a place to politely discuss the tools, technique and culture of photography. Even with a 100ft piece of static I still use a cordellete or slings sometimes too. Still, It is probably a good idea to make sure that the knot is tightened and free-hanging. Keep in mind that the PAS and dynex slings you mentioned are made out of material that has very little to no stretch. A Loose dogbone will be better for trad since the floppy nature of the sling helps to limit the rope moving your pieces of protection. This makes it highly likely that you will get injured What are common sling lengths folks find useful for tree work? GameStop Moderna Pfizer Johnson & Johnson AstraZeneca Walgreens Best Buy Novavax SpaceX Tesla. If you're doing moderate trad as I do, and you don't do a lot of hanging belays, you can probably do really good on a black diamond BOD harness, maybe a shoulder sling, and a nice backpack. Water knots are large and annoying and tend to catch a lot more than the overlap for sewn slings. Terms & This has generally been my M. Seems like most of the people I know often climb with two personal anchors to clip to at an anchor. My personal choices are metolius elements for master points or where a smooth pear shape or round profile is needed (equalizing things, using a reverso style device, using a munter). Roped - Climbing taller vertical walls, when a pad is insufficient for protection. 12), and the good shit starts in the mid-7's. 4M subscribers in the climbing community. My goal with trad ain't to climb 5. And yes we are View community ranking In the Top 1% of largest communities on Reddit. A couple small lockers for the bolts and a big locker and matching oval non locker for master point is what I use if I want a super bomber top rope with said tied off sling. Like many things in climbing it's probably not going to end up killing you, but may as well do the just as efficient but safer Dragonflys are the best small cams on the market in my opinion. Thanks! 26 votes, 28 comments. A friend also recommended an autoblock for added safety which seems like a good idea. A sewn kevlar sheath is the best option, but a tied 5-6mm nylon prusik loop is fine. +1 for the first aid. Haven't used it on the slopes yet but my guess is that it will do the job. Agreed. I am a fan of the open sling because I trad climb. How many cams and alpine qd depends on how hard the climb would be, but general scrambling with some small pitch climbing around 4 cams and 6 qd, but I've Friends which I can extend so the qd is only for nut placement and That said: if you'll be top-roping on it all day as opposed to leading it and having your second top-rope it I'd beef it up. His closing statement: It's absolutely safe to girth 2 slings to your belay loop and clip each sling to its own coldshut. Essentially girth hitching 2 slings results in about 50% of its total breaking strength. 25 mm is far too big for a pick up edge. 11+ trad, then youre probably better off losing 1/2lb body weight or getting more skill/experience. I hate climbing with a sling unless I am carrying more gear than a harness can carry (i. 3M subscribers in the climbing community. Because of that my preference is always to get the best sling placement possible before worrying about knots, so if it's a choice between a girth hitch or a worse sling placement I'll go with the girth hitch. bullet pack, which the follower carries. Last night my friend (who is probably reading this) and I were discussing the safety of using accessory cord to re-sling hexcentrics. be careful so that the atc is within arm reach. To climb one is to know one. And, in this case, op can ditch 2 whole dogbones and non lockers, put two non lockers on the bolts (these can be lockers or just one can or niether) clip the sling (paying attention so the stitching is out of the way (I clove hitch the If you’re considering slings for hanging a ring to a hard point, I usually carry at least one single length and one double. These uses tend to not be very rough on slings. However I wont hesitate to just use draws if its a typical setup. Im getting more into trad climbing where obviously alpine draws are pretty much your go to for clipping your rope to cams, nuts etc. Doesnt seem like 25mm would be best for strength, for me it seems best suited for warmups/pullups on a hangboard and power drills on a campus board. I'd put redundancy above equalisation in a top rope where shock loading shouldn't be major. The tub Gear Slings are nice because you can throw the rack behind you when you are climbing, keeping all of the gear out of the way. Think places like lone peak cirque, city of rocks, big and little cottonwood canyons, and some local quartzite and limestone crags. And yes we are scared in climbing in the birthplace of free climbing, there is a good write-up on thecrag. -A small tube of Neosporin (or a few of the even smaller and lighter plastic packs, like single servers) -alcohol wipes, like 3 or 4 -assorted bandaids -a few ibuprofin: enough to work all day. 4-5. The biggest advantage is that they are super easy to unknot once weighted. Even on wandering routes I rarely need to use draws. For context of the climbing I'm doing, I live in northern utah and climb mostly easy multipitch trad (up to 5. They I just recently got one. BD Neutrinos) and using an open sling between the It's time to retire some of my climbing gear. My double lengths go around my shoulder and clip into itself. We will walk you through the differences between fiber choices, strength ratings, lengths, and modes of carry, suggesting different products for different desires Usually around 16-20mm wide, nylon climbing slings are much bulkier (and more durable) than lightweight 6-14mm Dyneema slings. I would get 6x sling draws, cheapest and lightest you can find, 6x wiregate quickdraws, lightest and cheapest you can find, and 6x sport quickdraws with beefy dogbones and solid gates, cheapest you can find. Sling replacement on a cam ? imgur Does the sling look too frayed? There are no signs of weakness aside from the wear/fading of the sling exterior. I really can't afford to by a whole new rack as i am a broke student. They also give you an easy way to transfer What is the current recommendations for marking slings? Having read the UIAA statement on marking ropes, it's not too much of a stretch to imagine that writing on slings with A knotted sling has more than enough strength to be a suitable anchor. 1. I climb at Josh. However, I'll say that my Black Diamond nylon 18. In both samples the knotted sling broke under less impact force than the unknotted sling. The sewn dyneema sling held a straight factor 2 but that doesn't make it a good idea to I use two different ones because #1, the setup I describe isn't sold that way (it's 3 brands) and because that way I can get the best type of sling (mammut contact!!!), a super small biner where I dont need a large one (bolt/gear end) and a good compromise of size/weight on the rope end. 786 votes, 149 comments. The small cams 00-4 are probably my favorite micros. Now I’m enjoying using them as short runners. If you want a full set of light trad/alpine sling- and quickdraws for cheap I warmly recommend looking for sales of rack packs of light biners (CAMP NANO, Edelrid 19G etc), 60cm dyneema slings and 17cm Petzl Ange S/L or BD OZ quickdraws. I try for 3 pieces but will work with 2 if I determine they are really good. Without breaking the bank. very fast a couple quick clips and you are done. Fewer items, packed into a single bag for ease of transport to make traveling simpler with more focus on the experience than View community ranking In the Top 1% of largest communities on Reddit What do you usually use for a top rope sport anchor and why? I've been with various groups that have used quickdraws with locking biners, sliding x with limiter knots, and simple overhand/figure 8 knot on a bight, and I'm curious what climbit's preference is. Dyneema is way better for alpine draws. Sport anchor: 2 quickdraws Trad anchor: cordelette or climbing Business, Economics, and Finance. So while If yes: buy fat sport draws for sport climbing now and buy lightweight trad gear when you start that up later. Cutting and sealing the ends takes a bit more care than nylon. I have the bare bones climbing gear. Usually bring 8-10 alpine shoulder length draws, 3 double length slings with carabiners over the shoulder ( for extension, anchor building, slinging shit, and rap tether), and often like 4 regular lightweight sport draws. If swapping leads, I most often anchor with the rope. If 1/2lb makes it breaks your climb and you're not climbing 5. 5 = breaking force oft the system //the 0. Reddit iOS Reddit Android Reddit Premium About Reddit Advertise Blog Careers Press. Climbing Pack The acensionest is my favorite climbing pack. 5 can vary from 0. I like it for cleaning a sport route, setting up a top rope anchor, and starting a rappel. I understand redundancy is good, but is there a reason that one sling or daisy chain to one anchor and a clove hitch with the rope to another is not enough for connecting oneself to an Reddit . and over the years have also seen many sport climbers bring a couple 60cm (and even longer sometimes??) alpine draws for their projects (difficult clips, minimising The harness becomes a lot more important when you're going to be wearing it all day, loading it down with 15lbs of trad gear, and doing hanging belays in it. I only use it for static protection though, I would never use a sling as a PAS if I wanted to work on a particular section of a climb off belay, for example - although it would probably hold, other systems transfer much less energy to the last point of security, such as a PAS made from dynamic rope. A typical climbing fall would put 4 or 5 kN on the sling. Having read about gear and resling and age of gear. 20 votes, 18 comments. Want everyone to send in their perfect kits, try giving details like the size of rope/diameter, no of quickdraws, what PAS you use, no. I made a retrievable rigging sling/ultra sling hybrid 😎 Grab 10-15 shoulder-length slings (60cm) and 20-30 non-locking biners. Slings are a bit short to benefit from braiding. Reply You have a bunch of good answers, but I just realized I've commented twice but not actually answered your question. We are climbing on the bottom chord of the truss, and the top chord is a round tube that can be wrapped with a tape sling--I think that's the pick off point we'd choose for rescue. Also doubles as a good rappel extension and for slinging natural pro. I tend to go 10-12 alpine draws with 2-4 quicks depending on where I am and the climb. I try not to fanboy for companies, but Metolius has definitely earned it. 8, but it was my first time climbing it. Keeps the front 4 loops clear for cams/nuts and slings while I climb. All slung gear needs to be sprayed individually or have the slings covered with cardboard, but it's still a thousand time faster than tape or nail polish. On the other hand, PE slings that were older than ten years, but used rarely, had lost a lot of strength. Sling and crab to tie in at top so you can lower off, quickdraws for sport, rope well obviously. I like lighter bravos for the few other places i use lockers (like personal tethers). For at least a decade now, the "industry standard" for an unattended top-rope anchor (think guiding a bunch of beginners) has been two lockers (opposite+opposed) or three non-lockers at the master point. I swear this is the first thing that anyone told me when I started climbing. the single strand now has to take half the shared load. Premium Powerups Explore Gaming GameStop Moderna Pfizer Johnson & Johnson AstraZeneca Walgreens Best When your cam sling is extended it's just a single loop now so it's not as strong as being doubled up. set of nuts. You can get trad draws in various lengths, nice 25cm long ones are better than alpine draws unless you want to extend. You should always make the best anchor you can with what you have. Couple thousand lbs in a few mm, stupid light. Simple solution: don't buy dyneema slings. I probably wouldn't even have one if I hadn't got it with a bunch of cams I The reason dyneema breaks in those videos is not due to the peak forces being applied, but rather the how dynamic the force is applied. I've only started building climbing anchors recently, and although I can confidently build a safe anchor, I don't know enough yet to inspect all the anchors other people set up. It was also nice to resling cams by multiple manufacturers in a single order. Posted by u/theblindsaint - 3 votes and 9 comments It's amazing if you're climbing hard enough - ideally 6c and up (at least 5. It's easy to make a virtually weightless pack. do i just make some 1. rock pillars/ocun (czech republic): really good shoes (eg. I mostly just use mine to keep my rack organized and in one place. It's terrible on top belay in guide mode. Yes, This. “In spite of that, we found PE slings that were older than ten years, but had been used rarely and still exhibited very high strength. 4 and only two bolts its an easy climb for anyone to get their wet leading outdoors). I have a sterling rope reactor chain (PAS), multiple slings of different lengths, and I will probably buy a cordelette soon. In a large Really Useful Box, in which I also keep my helmet, ice axes, crampons (in a bag), shoes etc. The anchors I'm sharing below are for toproping, and not trad, but I think this subreddit is a good place to get opinions from other experienced climbers on anchor safety. You need to have the right size ready and racked up front on your harness. I wouldn't say we climbed that much. I’m looking to mark my quickdraws, biners, slings, and particularly my rope. a good sling is bomber just dont fuck uo the procedure since i guess thats where peiple kill Hello. 3 to 0. Bad things (can) happen. This employs a rope to provide protection in one of several ways: Top-rope - The rope is securely attached at the top of the route. I personally think mixed slings offer the best compromise. From what I've read, soft climbing gear can deteriorate over time. They bought me board games. D. I'm lazy and usually use a single sling, especially if i'm just rethreading the rope to lower off, because I'm never actually off belay. the knot might snag. But it should also be noted that I climb with a full set of DMM Dragons with the extendable sling so I carry less QD's (it's about the same length). Make all kinds of pre-made gadgets out of it from prusik Someone said I need slings (to hold my weight on the anchors instead of the rope) but I'm not sure what I should purchase for that. " Is this a good rule? I have been using a dyneema sling as a third hand backup to go hands free while rapping/cleaning routes. I also use the slings for trad anchors but most people aren't into building trad anchors with slings, so they might be single purpose for you. I've received liquid chalk, chalk bags. a basic knot will reduce the strength of the rope by ~50% as a general guideline. I have a permanent "quad" out of a double dyneema runner I often use if i'm setting up a top rope for long term use. Yours works just fine though and may well be more efficient if you can get the lenghts right. 144 votes, 22 comments. This is not a good place to simply share cool photos/videos or promote your own work and projects, but rather a place to discuss photography as an art and post things that would be of interest to other photographers. Crypto I've recently acquired some 10 to 15-year-old climbing slings and quickdraws. Yeah, this is probably the best way. A single can work over most 4x6 rigs but is often tight to do with 1 beaner. if you want to improve/make it easier, get a daisy chain (looped, like the one grivel sells) instead of a knotted sling or even a normal nylon (not dyneema) sling. IMO fancy carabiners dont really matter much for trad climbing and especially sling draws. This shows that although the knot absorbed energy, it also created a weak point that required less force to break than the unknotted sling did. You simply dont want to pick up past a certain percentage of your body weight bc it just gets pretty uncomfortable/injury inducing. They looked practically new and I was super impressed! BD just replaced the slings, but pricing and service was lacking. You can absolutely do all of that with a couple of long slings, but I like the easy length adjustability. Just inspect and replace it if it’s been through some heavy use. Its CE 1077 (alpine skiing), EN 12492 (climbing), EN 1078 (cycling) certified and 12. Nitpicking, opposed biners are a good idea. BD draws. Sewn slings are safer, holding larger forces and don't depend upon the quality of your knot 2)Sewn slings are less clumsy. Aaaand go enroll in a top rope anchor course. e. That place with mini length climbs and ground fall potential always present. On a few routes I want to climb, my anchoring equipment won't get quite far enough to extend out completely past the end of the rock. Considering this gear has never been used and has been stored properly, is it safe to use? Upon visual inspection, they appear brand new with absolutely no signs of fraying, fluffing or wear. I have been told not to keep slings knotted, with this accident cited as the example. I don't know the name, but the idea is you clip one end of the sling, twist it so many times it starts to bunch, and then clip the other end to the same carabiner. Or concerned about weight because you're climbing 5. Tons of laughs and amazing views climbing at Hitchcock Pinnacle in Tucson, AZ. Aid climbing). Doubling it up would make it too short. 10 climber there's still stuff to do but the climbing schools dominate the easier walls and there's so much traffic that most of it is polished to glass. It's a really good device. The 5th loop holds all of my nonsense gear that I carry for non climbing/emergencies. but there are two relevant and good media embedded in you post, The home of Climbing on reddit. i know some people are all about backing shit up with two of this-and-that but i dont. Hope to get some answers. Gotta love a lightweight 1/2" cord rated for 34000 lbs. The V thread would also work (maybe back it up with a screw) depending on the ice at the top, but I would probably set a safety rope to access the edge from a tree. Black diamond tested a knotted sliding x, which I use, and it broke at 16 kn. Thicker dogbone is better for grabbing = for sport climbing. Anchor question-single sling with a figure 8, or single I use both lengths. Draws made from slings and biners (aka alpine draws) are nice for trad climbing when you're climbing multiple pitches below your limit. If you're a 5. Thinner is lighter and better for multipitches, long approaches, for alpine. View community ranking In the Top 5% of largest communities on Reddit. My gear is clipped to a 60cm sling which I've tied short with a slip knot, so it doesn't slop about and get tangled up. A 60cm sling would only extend your rappel about 5" from your belay loop after the girth hitch through the tie-ins and the knot in the middle. 12 super hard stuff, but more into 5. Happy climbing! It's also perfectly safe to clip in with a single sling, just scarier. Or if you climb in a gym and think the workers are knowledgeable ask them what a good length would be for your area (careful with that though sometimes gyms get really good well rounded climbers working there sometimes they get dummies). It is made from Dyneema, known for being the strongest fiber on earth, and pound for pound significantly stronger than steel. of locking/ non-locking carabiners, what size slings and how many, what harness to I have both the wrist and the sling and it works using the same connector to the camera, so I can change them out as needed. It's been a while since I looked for the details, but I think the gist of it is that he had a safety sling or something attached to his belay loop for a long time and wore it out. They allow two different options for extension, ~20cm or 60cm. And perfect an anchor setup that minimizes or eliminates knots in slings. the nylon vs dynema thing isn't anything new. GameStop Moderna Pfizer Johnson & Johnson AstraZeneca Walgreens Best Buy Novavax SpaceX Tesla. Or wearing it over lots of layers while ice climbing. Any tubular webbing or pre-sewn slings will also be suitable. Depending on your risk tolerance, I would say to replace dynemma slings within 5 years and check the date of manufacturing when you're purchasing. Given that the purpose of the vid is to demonstrate that tying your own dyneema slings is a bad idea it's not a good idea to show tied dyneema slings holding lots of falls. Actually, it's on two slings - one for winter-usable gear (nuts, ice screws, hexes, screwgates, slings, prusiks, slingdraws, long quickdraws) and one for summer-only IMO no loops are required on a gear sling. The grade is not that important. doubling the loop doubles the strength of the system. Having said that, even a girth hitch only reduces the strength of the sling by ~50% so your sling will still be pretty strong. The Megajul works great for lead belay, less so for top rope on outdoor dynamic ropes wear you have to keep it tight for the beginning of the climb or on slab in general, as it locks up and makes it hard to pull through. At ~5 bucks a sling you can get 10 for 50 and be set for a normal rack. Or two singles. Also black ember TKS wow what a beast. note that although they may have held lots of falls it doesn't make it a good idea. Babywearing is simply holding your baby close to your body using fabric or a carrier instead of your arms. Alpines are very flexible though, use them as normal draws, extenders and remember they are a sling so good for using as a sling, threads or building your anchor. Advertisement Coins. what do you use 30cm runners/slings for? i have 2 kicking around on my gear sling/gear bin and have not found a use for them. don't get cordelette if you plan on trad climbing later, John Long is an awesome climber, 30 damn years ago, climbing has gone a long way since, cordelette is the slowest, most noob anchor ever, build your anchors out of slings, it will be much more versatile and faster in the future and getting familiar with this type of anchor in easy waters is a plus :) I bought a handful of these to temporarily replace some sus cam slings. For situations that will put a lot of abuse on gear, like top rope anchors or multi-pitch anchors, I like cordelette or tied nylon runners. 16 votes, 22 comments. Rated to 32kn so even when girth hitched to the thumb loop they’re still super good enough. The benefits of a clean nose carabiner really make a difference on bolts. I am a new recreational climber climbing MRS. 9). 40m+), shoulder/body slings are the shizzle. Terms & Policies Don't over-engineer it, on toprope you won't put a lot of stress on an anchor as you'll just be dangling or falling 1-2 m into a lot of rope. With rope you can tie a double bowline off on one, and the other can be whatever you want - a frictionless hitch, a bowline on a bight, or just some bight clipped to a sling around the tree. Crypto Equalette is super handy on two bolt anchors. WD-40, lube, alcohol solvents/spirits, petrol, Teflon sprays, degreaser all have no real effect on climbing soft goods. 11+ to 5. 6 depending in View community ranking In the Top 1% of largest communities on Reddit. Given the fact that the trees are solid and not just spindly bushes or already on the verge of dropping over, a sling around one stem and a locking carabiner should be all you need, make sure your rope does not drag over sharp edges. Slings, dogbones, etc have a shelf life of 3 years. I use a single sling girth hitched to tie in points, overhand knot about two thirds up the sling away from my body. I have a big background in backpacking and long hikes. Am I doing invisible damage to this sling? Good attitude depending where you climb at you need to do something different to get good protection. If the bolts are connected with a chain (thus, redundant), I clip to the chain. 21 votes, 49 comments. Futzing with over the shoulder slings sucks more then carrying an extra 10 carabiners. I've been climbing top rope for a few years now and I've burnt out all my local spots so I decided it's time to start sport and trad climbing. A big fall might put 6 or 7 on it. It is pretty much impossible to reach edit: here is a good link about the topic. I found it was cheaper to buy a multipack, so I got the 6x 0. I do like having a few slings when sport climbing to extend wandering bolts and reduce rope drag. assuming 2 good bolts, 2 draws is prob the easiest, if you really want you can get a couple dog bones and permanently put a couple lockers on them. Another option would be to Just like rock climbing, it's best to set the anchor below the lip. When you make draws like that and extend them, it looks like this where the sling is now running over top of itself. Suggested setup for via If you fall on this sling you might fall 5+ metres with no dynamic parts at all. If that's your SWL, using the 5:1 ratio, you'd want 2000lb (~10kN) rated gear. Reply reply A mix of types works best, the phantoms are less bulky/cleaner, sit better on the gear and are quicker to place, so when you're climbing harder grades it is quite useful to have them. You should always have a sling just in case so you can manufacture something more appropriate if needed. . unless the bolts are sketch I wouldn't worry too much about the rope absorbing a bit of the force. Some routes are meant to be led/followed, and top roping them may result in bad swings (imagine something like this but outdoors). harness, rope, carabiners, atc, and a couple slings I'm just trying to figure out what gear is an absolute must have. What is going completely over your head is that the force on the pro and the force on the climber are directly proportional. Members Online. The slings on the cams have most definitely come to the end of there life (way past 5 years) looking very tatty but the cams themselves are still in really good nick. Weird, I know. Yeah as for the adrenaline this route was only like a 5. Wild Country seems to be marketing that sling as "the Cordelette" as in a name for that product. Seemed like they did good engineering. If you must use a sling through a thumb loop, climbing without a leash attached to your wrist lets you quickly swap hands on a tool or go hands-free, the elastic means that you don't have sling material dangling around which could create a really sketchy situation if it snagged on your crampons, a nice tool placement and minimal slack in your system provides a modicum of self-belay (generally not rated for this, caveat emptor), and 26 votes, 14 comments. There's a very specific danger when you shorten it by clipping an inner loop, but as long as you only clip it in a maximum of two spots, it should be safe. ” not a great idea. The reality is, most of us use it on our draws, most of us use it in situations where falls aren't very common, and when dynema/dynex fails it's almost always when people girth two pieces of soft gear together, not from a crazy fall onto a sling. every area is So currently I use a pre built quad with a 120cm sling for sport climbing. Obviously a bit heavier than a pure climbing helmet, but offers pretty solid protection. Yeah sure, I usually carry a 80m rope, two shoes, harness, belay device, a medium bunch of slings and carabiners etc, total of 17 quickdraws, chalk bag + extra chalk, a Favorite sling is the Mammut Contact 8mm as its stitching is snag free. The word "safe" makes this a tricky question, because things can be "safe" or "unsafe" under different circumstances. Get a solid gate on top and wire on bottom (unless there's a more enticing deal that's solid/solid or wire Not sure what you need the slings, prussik, and locking biners for if you are just sport climbing. I would consider it completely wrong to say you should never use nylon, but I wouldn't start out planning on using a sling. Until then, BD Momentum is a good default starting point. Guide books usually do a good job of telling you the size range needed Hi Climbit! I'm wondering if we're able to create our own quickdraws by getting two wiregates (e. For example, you need the judgment to know what routes can be top roped. com but the gist of it is: Say I get to the chains of a sport route and find a comfortable stance to set my rappel, but the only soft gear I have with me is a 120cm sling that is too long to use as an anchor. The 2nd fall test of the 16mm nylon sling provides the strongest evidence. Also make sure you understand the various sling tension / sling angle configurations and use what is best for your given situation. The 8. I learned on a Blake's hitch, moved the Blake's to a split tail and recently got my hands on a Zigzag. Do you girth hitch each sling to its own Reddit iOS Reddit Android Reddit Premium About Reddit Advertise Blog Careers Press. This makes them the best choice for situations such as extending a belay device, replacing anchor 12 votes, 22 comments. Two more anchor slings on cows tails, with an additional progress adjust that switches between the cows tails anchor points depending on direction of travel. Wire gates are lighter, I find them more comfortable. Climb Safe: Connecting Two Slings Together rockandice. Posted by u/good_old_often_wrong - 5 votes and 37 comments If I were to do it over again, I'd get a set of Djinns and put together like six to eight alpine draws using CAMP Photons (good size, light!, relatively cheap) and Mammut Contact 8mm slings. The service of Metolius was amazing, and they cleaned and breathed new life into ~20y/o TCUs. 4 - 3, with smaller ones than I had originally planned. Get ~12cm long draws, that are 12-14mm thick (this is the sweet spot for weight and price). Welcome to the canopy. Tubular nylon has a smaller tensile strength than dynema, so sewn runners have the potential to be much easier to handle/lighter. Dyneema is significantly more static than nylon so it essentially has no stretch so the the deceleration from a fall directly onto it occurs over a much shorter relative timespan compared to the nylon. At the anchor, I clip the sling to one bolt with a locker and the othe bolt with a draw connected to the sling below the overhand knot. as the leader leaves the belay I pretty much will always clip one of the pieces/bolts in the anchor to reduce the fall factor just a bit and to redirect the fall forces for the belayer to an upward Keep in mind that draws with a stiff dogbone (the sling connecting the biners) are more appropriate for sport climbing. I started climbing before the dedicated PAS gizmos (loops sewn together) became a thing, and people used their daisy chains all the time for single pitch, instead of fiddling with slings. this is assuming you already have atc, harness, and shoes. The HSP sling has strong but soft material, padding, adjustment pull tab, two point to one point. Sources are friends that work for gear manufacturers due to close to 2 decades in the climbing and retail gear industries: There are hard and fast rules for nylon in fact friends! zero use nylon is no good at the 10 year mark infrequent use is good with inspection 5 to 7 years 13 votes, 55 comments. They are lighter, rack better and are easier to extend. More often about once a week. Its stronger to connect 2 slings with a carabiner or use a long sling, but it doesn't strike me as that silly For an alpine rack I would carry less cams, more nuts, some 60cm alpine qd and two 120cm slings with biners clipped end to end around chest. Crypto All of them have to pass a certification, choose a good brand. They tend to be more versatile and durable than dyneema slings, and they are cheap enough to Sport; I like fat slings (to grab on to and doesn't twist), a nice gate action (some are too stiff, some too loose), favorite gate type for the rope side is a banana-shaped wire (nice and wide so the biner doesn't rotate instead of the rope clipping in) and fat carabiners that last. Also, if you are going to start climbing trad in the future, I'd invest in some triple-length dyneema slings and biners to make your own alpine draws. Pretty solid package to start my gear collection. You already have everything you need with the single piece of cord without introducing additional gear. If you climb every day in searing heat and rain and salty ocean and acid falling from the heavens you will go through your gear quicker. no risk of a static material taking a dynamic load) and B) the rope absorbs a lot of the dynamic force of falling. I have a full set of hexes that are old enough that rope was used to create the slings. Note that this is all situational as well. ukclimbing. For the bigger cams, I decided I'd get friends, since they were cheaper than BD C4, similar design, different #2 range to complement my group's C4s, and had a slightly extendable sling. But really, the sling you use is good. If you accidentally shock load this gear (factor 1 fall), the adjust has the stretch to not wreck you whereas you will generate a great deal of impact force using the PAS. I test this on a regular basis by tying them in dyneema slings and using those slings as part of a belay. That said, I keep a couple of nylon slings on me (usually one 60cm and one 120cm) as they are nicer for building anchors, extending your rappel, etc. the accessory cord is not climbing specific so it's rated for single line loads and lists the breaking In normal multipitch id much rather have trad draws with 2 biners than single biner. I really love their color scheme but my understanding is that I should probably replace the slings since the general consensus is to replace soft goods every 5-10 years. 13 votes, 20 comments. Premium Explore it all depends. As an aside I don't think anyone outside of totally new climbers pay full price for slings. I climb with my shoulder lengths over one shoulder each with their own biner. Related Simple fix, don't use elastic. Last thing you need is your biners catching on slings and gear as you try to release them. Typically still over 10kn. Granted, that is a huge reduction from the The Mammut Contact Slingwinds top honors for its winning combination of minimal bulk, super low weight, easy deployment, and comfortable handling. My personal preference would be to sling shorter slings around your pieces, clip a carabiner and then do a more conventional fixed point or sliding x anchor. In climbing your max sustained load is going to be approximately body weight, or maybe twice that if you have 2 people hanging from an anchor, say 400lb (2kN). If you plan on working easy'ish long pitches (ie. The phrase "good enough" should be reserved for alpine/aid/etc. I know the responsible thing is to destroy the gear to make sure nobody ever uses it, but it feels super wasteful! I already made a nice rope doormat a few years back, and slings/or anything loop shaped My thought was to start climbing trad slowly this year, but with covid and everything it been slow. a 60m rope is a massive pain to coil all the time. I am using a webbing sling loop in a basket (pic attached) to move the ascender far enough away from my body that I can use the tail of the rope to body thrust up the line (and auto tend slack). I think it is better to answer what angle makes sense: Here are the best climbing slings and runners: Sterling Dyneema Sling; Petzl ST’ANNEAU Dyneema Sling; Sterling Nylon Sling; Mammut Contact Sling; Trango Low Bulk Sling; Metolius Monster Open Sling; Metolius 18mm A sling, (Typically a dynamic sling such as Beal Dynaclip or a homemade one) 3 Locking carabinners Belay/Rappel device 2 prussick's slings one "Maillon Rapide" to be lowered on a bolt in case I don't send the climb and there's nobody 22 votes, 14 comments. 7 mil cordallette would be fine. com Open. For an all-around sling, go with 120cm nylon. I’m looking into getting into more alpine climbing so I was wondering what’s best for me moving on. I own a majority of the slings posted here (ESD and spiritus being favorites) but no matter what I try I keep going back to my Haley. I did a bunch of research on rope cleaning and in the end, I just ended up using warm water in a new (important factor) bin and it was fine. So your calculations shoud go like this : 2*(rating oft the sling)*0. For smaller slings you have the Aer city sling 2 and the Aer Day Sling 3, both fantastic choices. 10 (Acrophobics Anonymous is a great first lead, at 5. What is the best way to adjust that long sling to be the perfect length so that I can comfortably go into the anchor direct? Use this for gear anchors, tree anchors and so forth Also get a couple double length slings for tied off anchors. I found a 5. Im in the process of buying my own equipment for trad climbing so I need like 10 quickdraws, which sums up to be quite expensive. The Pagan Mountaineering sling was also rated to 22kN and, again, broke at 20. Crypto I had picked up some older draws that have mainly Black Diamond biners and Petzl slings but they're pretty old. Petzl has some good info on this on their website. The dangers of open slings + carabiners. Some brainstorm ideas: second pair of your fav shoes, helmet, climbing classes, a nice puffy, gift cards to climbing stores. The pear shape makes for very easy placement, they bite really well, they're super flexible yet stiff when you place them, triggers are durable/easy to engage, strong for their size-range, and the sling extension is bomb. I carry a few alpine draws when I climb sport, but I'm now using a Movement 3Tech Alpi for my climbing and bike commuting. Stuff like prusiks, gloves, belay plate and a nanotrax+tiblock for rescue. You shouldn't aim to use regular quickdraws for an anchor as they are too short. It's good to throw in two longer draws in case of wandering route so avoid rope drag. 2 live trees, at least as big around as your thigh. 0s tend to be reached for first, perhaps out of comfort. I rack my draws on the sling and gear on my harness. Thin Dyneema slings in particular need to be treated with caution with respect to aging. Hi, new to reddit so dont even know if this is likely to get an answer but worth a shot. And the smallest 3 offset ULMCs fit really well into most pin scars where I climb. View community ranking In the Top 1% of largest communities on Reddit. The sling goes across the he body and then the camera is in a comfortable position for me to grab and shoot. Maybe twice a week occasionally when the weather was good. The home of Climbing on reddit. In a top-roping situation, your anchor slings are fine: they are 1) likely under constant load (i. I got the trango sport climbing package on sale for $142, came with 10 draws, 4 locking biners and the 2 60cm slings. I personally think 12cm is a bit short to be honest, as I think it is more likely to lift nuts out as you climb above them, although you see pros using these shorter trad draws quite happily. Reply reply [deleted] Posted by u/question_23 - 2 votes and 4 comments Using it for alpine draws, slings, dogbones, etc is all good because it's not catching a static load, the rope is dynamic and therefore the sling doesn't have to take the same kind of force as it would catching a static load directly. Do not use any knot except waterknot or flemish bend for slings/flat webbing. If no: go for an all-around option. 0s are all Mammut Contacts made with dyneema so they're pretty good and, according to store pages, they can hold a 22 kn fall. It has a good number of short (30ft or less) sport climbs ranging 5. Is it a good idea to buy carabiners only, and make the "sling" out of rope and applying a proper knot? I would of course use proper rope. Crypto. A figure of 8/overhand isnt going anywhere, though. The best way would be with some 10mil static rope. You can also use them on natural features like trees, threads, and chickenheads. Slings that are bunched up like a girl's hair scrunchie have been twisted. O. And yes we are scared of falling. 10 and lower multipitch. At that point, you might as well just stick with the tree. Cordelette or accessory cord is a skinny rope from about 5mm to 9mm (bigger is generally stronger, smaller is not suitable for climbing). Alpine: lightweight, thin slings and wire gates everywhere. Medium size The first one was just a tied sling so it wasn't rated to anything other than the strength of the webbing itself. It's also a good idea to keep the nylon slings free for other stuff you'll need them for, such as anchoring. If I'm going on Business, Economics, and Finance. You can usually get them 40% off if you shop the sales. This makes them the best choice for situations such as extending a belay device , replacing anchor I personally dont like using sport draws for trad climbing so I carry 10 regular shoulder length slings and 2 double length slings on longer stuff, all racked with 2 carabiners on my harness. (Like 1/2lb). If you see braids, it's probably webbing in a "daisy chain". The problem with learning to tie a single type of anchor such as your pre-tied quad is that you lack the fundamentals to adapt to a different scenario (in this case, your need to extend the anchor) efficiently. The most safe way to climb routes, and almost always the type of route climbing that novices are introduced to. 8-10. 5mm marmut is awesome at this. (48") slings: $15-$30 Belay device: $15-$100 Harness: $50-$125 We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. Petzl makes good stuff but those are kind of a weird big D shape and I find autolockers to be more trouble then their worth. Also you can get by using an Ikea blue bag for $1 instead of a $40 rope bag. 2-3 pitch moderates, you're gonna rack, what, a cordelette+3 lockers, 6-8 cams, a set of nuts, 3 QD's, 4-6 alpine draws, and somewhere between 1 and 9 belay devices. Hi Climbers, i have been climbing for about a year and now I feel like I have enough experience and psyche to spend some money on making a good sport climbing kit. I have pretty much all of the rest of the gear for sport climbing though. This is a product marketed towards people that can't / don't View community ranking In the Top 5% of largest communities on Reddit Who reslings trad gear in Europe I have a bunch of trad gear that’s in need of reslinging. 6 or so alpine draws a few of your sport quickdraws, some 7mm cord to build anchors and some lockers. 5-3 C4 cam size. If the system were frictionless and the top karabiner a perfect pulley, then the impact force on the pro would be exactly double the impact force on the climber. What The bottom line is that these videos are talking about what happens when static material is dynamically loaded. -Sandwich size zip lock bag. 3 of my friends and I all have the same mammut infinity rope. It is really light so good if you need to shed weight - though if you choose to use a quad, that’s probably not your primary concern. what you do is the best and correct method. Share This is the best climbing video I've ever A benefit of slings is that they're cheaper than the PAS and they aren't single-purpose, like a PAS is. Average Costs . I think there's a clear reason nylon is chosen for slings on cams after reading the article. Long enough to build and anchor and tie a knot in so I'm a fan of the Edelrid aramid core slings. A In this article, we aim to help you narrow down your choices. C4 Cams with I’m thinking of reslinging my C4 cans with extendable dyneema slings like on WC Friends. 22 votes, 14 comments. Thanks in advance, everyone. reReddit: Top posts of February 6, 2015. Valheim Genshin View community ranking In the Top 5% of largest communities on Reddit. 7 or 5. g. The blue black diamond one was rated to 22kN and broke at 20. Thanks in advance for your advice and opinions. Imo they are too long for standard Alpine draws. 6 multipitch not to far from me and I want to go try it. And View community ranking In the Top 1% of largest communities on Reddit. Washing machines have bleach and other corrosive things put through them, bathtubs get cleaned with even harsher chemicals, and even the special beal rope soap leaves a residue. But here's my take. 5x the single line rated load. Work looks good and I’ve whipped on the reslung pieces. Wirenose (or equivalent) if you can. Is the method with the two slings just as safe/good as using the clove hitch + rope (anyone know if its true that they use this in Austria)? Please be also advised, that the knot in the sling will reduce the holding power of the sling. dmfgk wcym gicv pmu icdjm vsivg eqgzc uewczd crup xtdn jonr biscy ymxbo vxzvf hxdqff